Main Body
Punch a vent hole with a paper punch as far into the body
tube as it will reach, about 25mm.
Fin Spar
Glue the fin spar spacer in between the two fin spars with
white glue. Clamp and let dry completely before proceeding.
Note that there should be a
space between the fin spars
(see enlarged detail).
This gap will later be used
to hold the fin.
Attach fin spar and ensure fin spar angle is 15° ± 1°
Attach the fin spar opposite the vent hole with white glue.
Check that the angle between face 1 of the fin spar and the
body tube is 15° ± 1° (see enlarged detail). This is a
critical measurement! If the angle is too large the spin
unit will not rotate. If it is too small, the exhaust gas
will scorch the fin during launch.
If the angle is not 15°
or within tolerance, then
remove the fin spar before
the glue dries and sand
the root of the spar to
remove enough balsa to
obtain the correct angle.
When the fin spar angle is correct, let it dry completely
before proceeding.
Fin and Fin Dowel
Spread white glue on both sides of the fin in the red shaded
area and along the root of the fin (face 2). Insert fin into
the gap in the fin spar and clamp. Glue the fin dowel onto the
trailing edge of the fin, overlapping the fin spar, as shown.
Launch Lug and Nose Cone
Glue the launch lug along the root of the fin spar. Glue the
nose cone into the body tube. Let dry.
Completed Spin Unit
This is the completed spin unit. Don't paint the unit until
you have given it at least one test launch. While an even coat
of paint should not disturb the dynamics of the Cyclone, it is
best to have a "baseline" of an unpainted model to compare
performance to later, after you paint it. Also be careful if
you attach chrome tape or any other "heavy" decoration to the
model, as it can affect its ability to rotate. Read about the
Weight Distribution of Origami Maple Seed to see where to
attach chrome tape, etc. -- generally, only on the body and
along the fin spar.
